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wild wales-第139部分

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the French。  〃In my childhood;〃 said I; 〃the Russians used to help 
us against the French; now the French help us against the Russians。  
Who knows but before I die I may see the Russians helping the 
French against us?〃



CHAPTER CVIII



Town of Newport … The Usk … Note of Recognition … An Old 
Acquaintance … Connamara Quean … The Wake … The Wild Irish … The 
Tramping Life … Business and Prayer … Methodists … Good Counsel。


NEWPORT is a large town in Monmouthshire; and had once walls and a 
castle。  It is called in Welsh Cas Newydd ar Wysg; or the New 
Castle upon the Usk。  It stands some miles below Caerlleon ar Wysg; 
and was probably built when that place; at one time one of the most 
considerable towns in Britain; began to fall into decay。  The Wysg 
or Usk has its source among some wild hills in the south…west of 
Breconshire; and; after absorbing several smaller streams; amongst 
which is the Hondu; at the mouth of which Brecon stands; which on 
that account is called in Welsh Aber Hondu; and traversing the 
whole of Monmouthshire; enters the Bristol Channel near Newport; to 
which place vessels of considerable burden can ascend。  Wysg or Usk 
is an ancient British word; signifying water; and is the same as 
the Irish word uisge or whiskey; for whiskey; though generally 
serving to denote a spirituous liquor; in great vogue amongst the 
Irish; means simply water。  The proper term for the spirit is 
uisquebaugh; literally acqua vitae; but the compound being 
abbreviated by the English; who have always been notorious for 
their habit of clipping words; one of the strongest of spirits is 
now generally denominated by a word which is properly expressive of 
the simple element water。

Monmouthshire is at present considered an English county; though 
certainly with little reason; for it not only stands on the western 
side of the Wye; but the names of almost all its parishes are 
Welsh; and many thousands of its population still speak the Welsh 
language。  It is called in Welsh Sir; or Shire; Fynwy; and takes 
its name from the town Mynwy or Monmouth; which receives its own 
appellation from the river Mynwy or Minno; on which it stands。  
There is a river of much the same name; not in Macedon but in the 
Peninsula; namely the Minho; which probably got its denomination 
from that race cognate to the Cumry; the Gael; who were the first 
colonisers of the Peninsula; and whose generic name yet stares us 
in the face and salutes our ears in the words Galicia and Portugal。

I left Newport at about ten o'clock on the 16th; the roads were 
very wet; there having been a deluge of rain during the night。  The 
morning was a regular November one; dull and gloomy。  Desirous of 
knowing whereabouts in these parts the Welsh language ceased; I 
interrogated several people whom I met。  First spoke to Esther 
Williams。  She told me she came from Pennow; some miles farther on; 
that she could speak Welsh; and that indeed all the people could 
for at least eight miles to the east of Newport。  This latter 
assertion of hers was; however; anything but corroborated by a 
young woman; with a pitcher on her head; whom I shortly afterwards 
met; for she informed me that she could speak no Welsh; and that 
for one who could speak it; from where I was to the place where it 
ceased altogether; there were ten who could not。  I believe the 
real fact is that about half the people for seven or eight miles to 
the east of Newport speak Welsh; more or less; as about half those 
whom I met and addressed in Welsh; answered me in that tongue。

Passed through Pennow or Penhow; a small village。  The scenery in 
the neighbourhood of this place is highly interesting。  To the 
north…west at some distance is Mynydd Turvey; a sharp pointed blue 
mountain。  To the south…east; on the right; much nearer; are two 
beautiful green hills; the lowest prettily wooded; and having its 
top a fair white mansion called Penhow Castle; which belongs to a 
family of the name of Cave。  Thence to Llanvaches; a pretty little 
village。  When I was about the middle of this place I heard an odd 
sound; something like a note of recognition; which attracted my 
attention to an object very near to me; from which it seemed to 
proceed; and which was coming from the direction in which I was 
going。  It was the figure seemingly of a female; wrapped in a 
coarse blue cloak; the feet bare and the legs bare also nearly up 
to the knee; both terribly splashed with the slush of the road。  
The head was surmounted by a kind of hood; which just permitted me 
to see coarse red hair; a broad face; grey eyes; a snubbed nose; 
blubber lips and great white teeth … the eyes were staring intently 
at me。  I stopped and stared too; and at last thought I recognised 
the features of the uncouth girl I had seen on the green near 
Chester with the Irish tinker Tourlough and his wife。

〃Dear me!〃 said I; 〃did I not see you near Chester last summer?〃

〃To be sure ye did; and ye were going to pass me without a word of 
notice or kindness had I not given ye a bit of a hail。〃

〃Well;〃 said I; 〃I beg your pardon。  How is it all wid ye?〃

〃Quite well。  How is it wid yere hanner?'

〃Tolerably。  Where do you come from?〃

〃From Chepstow; yere hanner。〃

〃And where are you going to?〃

〃To Newport; yere hanner。〃

〃And I come from Newport; and am going to Chepstow。  Where's 
Tourlough and his wife?〃

〃At Cardiff; yere hanner; I shall join them again to…morrow。〃

〃Have you been long away from them?〃

〃About a week; yere hanner。〃

〃And what have you been doing?〃

〃Selling my needles; yere hanner。〃

〃Oh! you sell needles。  Well; I am glad to have met you。  Let me 
see。  There's a nice little inn on the right:  won't you come in 
and have some refreshment?〃

〃Thank yere hanner; I have no objection to take a glass wid an old 
friend。〃

〃Well; then; come in; you must be tired; and I shall be glad to 
have some conversation with you。〃

We went into the inn … a little tidy place。  On my calling; a 
respectable…looking old man made his appearance behind a bar。  
After serving my companion with a glass of peppermint; which she 
said she preferred to anything else; and me with a glass of ale; 
both of which I paid for; he retired; and we sat down on two old 
chairs beneath a window in front of the bar。

〃Well;〃 said I; 〃I suppose you have Irish:  here's slainte … 〃

〃Slainte yuit a shaoi;〃 said the girl; tasting her peppermint。

〃Well:  how do you like it?'

〃It's very nice indeed。〃

〃That's more than I can say of the ale; which; like all the ale in 
these parts; is bitter。  Well; what part of Ireland do you come 
from?〃

〃From no part at all。  I never was in Ireland in my life。  I am 
from Scotland Road; Manchester。〃

〃Why; I thought you were Irish?〃

〃And so I am; and all the more from being born where I was。  
There's not such a place for Irish in all the world as Scotland 
Road。〃

〃Were your father and mother from Ireland?〃

〃My mother was from Ireland:  my father was Irish of Scotland Road; 
where they met and married。〃

〃And what did they do after they married?〃

〃Why; they worked hard; and did their best to get a livelihood for 
themselves and children; of which they had several besides myself; 
who was the eldest。  My father was a bricklayer; and my mother sold 
apples and oranges and other fruits; according to the season; and 
also whiskey; which she made herself; as she well knew how; for my 
mother was not only a Connacht woman; but an out…and…out Connamara 
quean; and when only thirteen had wrought with the lads who used to 
make the raal cratur on the islands between Ochterard and Bally na 
hinch。  As soon as I was able; I helped my mother in making and 
disposing of the whiskey and in selling the fruit。  As for the 
other children; they all died when young; of favers; of which there 
is always plenty in Scotland Road。  About four years ago … that is; 
when I was just fifteen … there was a great quarrel among the 
workmen about wages。  Some wanted more than their masters were 
willing to give; others were willing to take what was offered them。  
Those who were dissatisfied were called bricks; those who were not 
were called dungs。  My father was a brick; and; being a good man 
with his fists; was looked upon as a very proper person to fight a 
principal man amongst the dungs。  They fought in the fields near 
Salford for a pound a side。  My father had it all his own way for 
the first three rounds; but in the fourth; receiving a blow under 
the ear from the dung; he dropped; and never got up again; dying 
suddenly。  A grand wake my father had; for which my mother 
furnished usquebaugh galore; and comfortably and dacently it passed 
over till about three o'clock in the morning; when; a dispute 
happening to arise … not on the matter of wages; for there was not 
a dung amongst the Irish of Scotland Road … but as to whether the 
O'Keefs or O'Kellys were kings of Ireland a thousand years ago; a 
general fight took place; which brought in the police; who; being 
soon dreadfully baten; as we all turned upon them; went and fetched 
the military; with wh
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