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wild wales-第20部分

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blame what was done at that time; under the name of Rebecca。  You 
have no idea how the poor Welsh were oppressed by those gates; aye; 
and the rich too。  The little people and farmers could not carry 
their produce to market owing to the exactions at the gates; which 
devoured all the profit and sometimes more。  So that the markets 
were not half supplied; and people with money could frequently not 
get what they wanted。  Complaints were made to government; which 
not being attended to; Rebecca and her byddinion made their 
appearance at night; and broke the gates to pieces with sledge…
hammers; and everybody said it was gallant work; everybody save the 
keepers of the gates and the proprietors。  Not only the poor but 
the rich; said so。  Aye; and I have heard that many a fine young 
gentleman had a hand in the work; and went about at night at the 
head of a band dressed as Rebecca。  Well; sir; those breakings were 
acts of violence; I don't deny; but they did good; for the system 
is altered; such impositions are no longer practised at gates as 
were before the time of Rebecca。〃

〃Were any people ever taken up and punished for those nocturnal 
breakings?〃 said I。

〃No; sir; and I have heard say that nobody's being taken up was a 
proof that the rich approved of the work and had a hand in it。〃

Night had come on by the time we reached the foot of the huge hills 
we had crossed in the morning。  We toiled up the ascent; and after 
crossing the level ground on the top; plunged down the bwlch 
between walking and running; occasionally stumbling; for we were 
nearly in complete darkness; and the bwlch was steep and stony。  We 
more than once passed people who gave us the n's da; the hissing 
night salutation of the Welsh。  At length I saw the Abbey looming 
amidst the darkness; and John Jones said that; we were just above 
the fountain。  We descended; and putting my head down I drank 
greedily of the dwr santaidd; my guide following my example。  We 
then proceeded on our way; and in about half…an…hour reached 
Llangollen。  I took John Jones home with me。  We had a cheerful cup 
of tea。  Henrietta played on the guitar; and sang a Spanish song; 
to the great delight of John Jones; who at about ten o'clock 
departed contented and happy to his own dwelling。



CHAPTER XVII



John Jones and his Bundle … A Good Lady … The Irishman's Dingle … 
Ab Gwilym and the Mist … The Kitchen … The Two Individuals … The 
Horse…Dealer … I can manage him … The Mist Again。


THE following day was gloomy。  In the evening John Jones made his 
appearance with a bundle under his arm; and an umbrella in his 
hand。

〃Sir;〃 said he; 〃I am going across the mountain with it piece of 
weaving work; for the man on the other side; who employs me。  
Perhaps you would like to go with me; as you are fond of walking。〃

〃I suppose;〃 said I; 〃you wish to have my company for fear of 
meeting Gwyddelians on the hill。〃

John smiled。

〃Well; sir;〃 said he; 〃if I do meet them I would sooner be with 
company than without。  But I dare venture by myself; trusting in 
the Man on High; and perhaps I do wrong to ask you to go; as you 
must be tired with your walk of yesterday。〃

〃Hardly more than yourself;〃 said I。  〃Come; I shall be glad to go。  
What I said about the Gwyddelians was only in jest。〃

As we were about to depart John said:

〃It does not rain at present; sir; but I think it will。  You had 
better take an umbrella。〃

I did so; and away we went。  We passed over the bridge; and turning 
to the right went by the back of the town through a field。  As we 
passed by the Plas Newydd John Jones said:

〃No one lives there now; sir; all dark and dreary; very different 
from the state of things when the ladies lived there … all gay then 
and cheerful。  I remember the ladies; sir; particularly the last; 
who lived by herself after her companion died。  She was a good 
lady; and very kind to the poor; when they came to her gate they 
were never sent away without something to cheer them。  She was a 
grand lady too … kept grand company; and used to be drawn about in 
a coach by four horses。  But she too is gone; and the house is cold 
and empty; no fire in it; sir; no furniture。  There was an auction 
after her death; and a grand auction it was and lasted four days。  
Oh; what a throng of people there was; some of whom came from a 
great distance to buy the curious things; of which there were 
plenty。〃

We passed over a bridge; which crosses a torrent; which descends 
from the mountain on the south side of Llangollen; which bridge 
John Jones told me was called the bridge of the Melin Bac; or mill 
of the nook; from a mill of that name close by。  Continuing our way 
we came to a glen; down which the torrent comes which passes under 
the bridge。  There was little water in the bed of the torrent; and 
we crossed easily enough by stepping…stones。  I looked up the glen; 
a wild place enough; its sides overgrown with trees。  Dreary and 
dismal it looked in the gloom of the closing evening。  John Jones 
said that there was no regular path up it; and that one could only 
get along by jumping from stone to stone; at the hazard of breaking 
one's legs。  Having passed over the bed of the torrent; we came to 
a path; which led up the mountain。  The path was very steep and 
stony; the glen with its trees and darkness on our right。  We 
proceeded some way。  At length John Jones pointed to a hollow lane 
on our right; seemingly leading into the glen。

〃That place; sir;〃 said he; 〃is called Pant y Gwyddel … the 
Irishman's dingle; and sometimes Pant Paddy; from the Irish being 
fond of taking up their quarters there。  It was just here; at the 
entrance of the pant; that the tribe were encamped; when I passed 
two months ago at night; in returning from the other side of the 
hill with ten shillings in my pocket; which I had been paid for a 
piece of my work; which I had carried over the mountain to the very 
place where I am now carrying this。  I shall never forget the 
fright I was in; both on account of my life; and my ten shillings。  
I ran down what remained of the hill as fast as I could; not 
minding the stones。  Should I meet a tribe now on my return I shall 
not run; you will be with me; and I shall not fear for my life nor 
for my money; which will be now more than ten shillings; provided 
the man over the hills pays me; as I have no doubt he will。〃

As we ascended higher we gradually diverged from the glen; though 
we did not lose sight of it till we reached the top of the 
mountain。  The top was nearly level。  On our right were a few 
fields enclosed with stone walls。  On our left was an open space 
where whin; furze and heath were growing。  We passed over the 
summit; and began to descend by a tolerably good; though steep 
road。  But for the darkness of evening and a drizzling mist; which; 
for some time past; had been coming on; we should have enjoyed a 
glorious prospect down into the valley; or perhaps I should say 
that I should have enjoyed a glorious prospect; for John Jones; 
like a true mountaineer; cared not a brass farthing for prospects。  
Even as it was; noble glimpses of wood and rock were occasionally 
to be obtained。  The mist soon wetted us to the skin 
notwithstanding that we put up our umbrellas。  It was a regular 
Welsh mist; a niwl; like that in which the great poet Ab Gwilym 
lost his way; whilst trying to keep an assignation with his beloved 
Morfydd; and which he abuses in the following manner:…


〃O ho! thou villain mist; O ho!
What plea hast thou to plague me so?
I scarcely know a scurril name;
But dearly thou deserv'st the same;
Thou exhalation from the deep
Unknown; where ugly spirits keep!
Thou smoke from hellish stews uphurl'd
To mock and mortify the world!
Thou spider…web of giant race;
Spun out and spread through airy space!
Avaunt; thou filthy; clammy thing;
Of sorry rain the source and spring!
Moist blanket dripping misery down;
Loathed alike by land and town!
Thou watery monster; wan to see;
Intruding 'twixt the sun and me;
To rob me of my blessed right;
To turn my day to dismal night。
Parent of thieves and patron best;
They brave pursuit within thy breast!
Mostly from thee its merciless snow
Grim January doth glean; I trow。
Pass off with speed; thou prowler pale;
Holding along o'er hill and dale;
Spilling a noxious spittle round;
Spoiling the fairies' sporting ground!
Move off to hell; mysterious haze;
Wherein deceitful meteors blaze;
Thou wild of vapour; vast; o'ergrown;
Huge as the ocean of unknown。〃


As we descended; the path became more steep; it was particularly so 
at a part where it was overshadowed with trees on both sides。  
Here; finding walking very uncomfortable; my knees suffering much; 
I determined to run。  So shouting to John Jones; 〃Nis gallav 
gerdded rhaid rhedeg;〃 I set off running down the pass。  My 
companion followed close behind; and luckily meeting no mischance; 
we presently found ourselves on level ground; amongst a collection 
of small houses。  On our turning a corner a church appeared on our 
left hand on the slope of the hill。  In the churchyard; and c
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