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glaucus-第8部分

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it to the north and south; without a glow passing through our 

hearts; as we remember the terrible and glorious pageant which 

passed by in the glorious July days of 1588; when the Spanish 

Armada ventured slowly past Berry Head; with Elizabeth's gallant 

pack of Devon captains (for the London fleet had not yet joined) 

following fast in its wake; and dashing into the midst of the vast 

line; undismayed by size and numbers; while their kin and friends 

stood watching and praying on the cliffs; spectators of Britain's 

Salamis。  The white line of houses; too; on the other side of the 

bay; is Brixham; famed as the landing…place of William of Orange; 

the stone on the pier…head; which marks his first footsteps on 

British ground; is sacred in the eyes of all true English Whigs; 

and close by stands the castle of the settler of Newfoundland; Sir 

Humphrey Gilbert; Raleigh's half…brother; most learned of all 

Elizabeth's admirals in life; most pious and heroic in death。  And 

as for scenery; though it can boast of neither mountain peak nor 

dark fiord; and would seem tame enough in the eyes of a western 

Scot or Irishman; yet Torbay surely has a soft beauty of its own。  

The rounded hills slope gently to the sea; spotted with squares of 

emerald grass; and rich red fallow fields; and parks full of 

stately timber trees。  Long lines of tall elms run down to the very 

water's edge; their boughs unwarped by any blast; here and there 

apple orchards are bending under their loads of fruit; and narrow 

strips of water…meadow line the glens; where the red cattle are 

already lounging in richest pastures; within ten yards of the rocky 

pebble beach。  The shore is silent now; the tide far out:  but six 

hours hence it will be hurling columns of rosy foam high into the 

sunlight; and sprinkling passengers; and cattle; and trim gardens 

which hardly know what frost and snow may be; but see the flowers 

of autumn meet the flowers of spring; and the old year linger 

smilingly to twine a garland for the new。



No wonder that such a spot as Torquay; with its delicious Italian 

climate; and endless variety of rich woodland; flowery lawn; 

fantastic rock…cavern; and broad bright tide…sand; sheltered from 

every wind of heaven except the soft south…east; should have become 

a favourite haunt; not only for invalids; but for naturalists。  

Indeed; it may well claim the honour of being the original home of 

marine zoology and botany in England; as the Firth of Forth; under 

the auspices of Sir J。 G。 Dalyell; has been for Scotland。  For here 

worked Montagu; Turton; and Mrs。 Griffith; to whose extraordinary 

powers of research English marine botany almost owes its existence; 

and who survived to an age long beyond the natural term of man; to 

see; in her cheerful and honoured old age; that knowledge become 

popular and general which she pursued for many a year unassisted 

and alone。  Here; too; the scientific succession is still 

maintained by Mr。 Pengelly and Mr。 Gosse; the latter of whom by his 

delightful and; happily; well…known books has done more for the 

study of marine zoology than any other living man。  Torbay; 

moreover; from the variety of its rocks; aspects; and sea…floors; 

where limestones alternate with traps; and traps with slates; while 

at the valley…mouth the soft sandstones and hard conglomerates of 

the new red series slope down into the tepid and shallow waves; 

affords an abundance and variety of animal and vegetable life; 

unequalled; perhaps; in any other part of Great Britain。  It cannot 

boast; certainly; of those strange deep…sea forms which Messrs。  

Alder; Goodsir; and Laskey dredge among the lochs of the western 

Highlands; and the sub…marine mountain glens of the Zetland sea; 

but it has its own varieties; its own ever…fresh novelties:  and in 

spite of all the research which has been lavished on its shores; a 

naturalist cannot; I suspect; work there for a winter without 

discovering forms new to science; or meeting with curiosities which 

have escaped all observers; since the lynx eye of Montagu espied 

them full fifty years ago。



Follow us; then; reader; in imagination; out of the gay watering…

place; with its London shops and London equipages; along the broad 

road beneath the sunny limestone cliff; tufted with golden furze; 

past the huge oaks and green slopes of Tor Abbey; and past the 

fantastic rocks of Livermead; scooped by the waves into a labyrinth 

of double and triple caves; like Hindoo temples; upborne on pillars 

banded with yellow and white and red; a week's study; in form and 

colour and chiaro…oscuro; for any artist; and a mile or so further 

along a pleasant road; with land…locked glimpses of the bay; to the 

broad sheet of sand which lies between the village of Paignton and 

the sea … sands trodden a hundred times by Montagu and Turton; 

perhaps; by Dillwyn and Gaertner; and many another pioneer of 

science。  And once there; before we look at anything else; come 

down straight to the sea marge; for yonder lies; just left by the 

retiring tide; a mass of life such as you will seldom see again。  

It is somewhat ugly; perhaps; at first sight; for ankle…deep are 

spread; for some ten yards long by five broad; huge dirty bivalve 

shells; as large as the hand; each with its loathly grey and black 

siphons hanging out; a confused mass of slimy death。  Let us walk 

on to some cleaner heap; and leave these; the great Lutraria 

Elliptica; which have been lying buried by thousands in the sandy 

mud; each with the point of its long siphon above the surface; 

sucking in and driving out again the salt water on which it feeds; 

till last night's ground…swell shifted the sea…bottom; and drove 

them up hither to perish helpless; but not useless; on the beach。



See; close by is another shell bed; quite as large; but comely 

enough to please any eye。  What a variety of forms and colours are 

there; amid the purple and olive wreaths of wrack; and bladder…

weed; and tangle (ore…weed; as they call it in the south); and the 

delicate green ribbons of the Zostera (the only English flowering 

plant which grows beneath the sea)。  What are they all?  What are 

the long white razors?  What are the delicate green…grey scimitars?  

What are the tapering brown spires?  What the tufts of delicate 

yellow plants like squirrels' tails; and lobsters' horns; and 

tamarisks; and fir…trees; and all other finely cut animal and 

vegetable forms?  What are the groups of grey bladders; with 

something like a little bud at the tip?  What are the hundreds of 

little pink…striped pears?  What those tiny babies' heads; covered 

with grey prickles instead of hair?  The great red star…fish; which 

Ulster children call 〃the bad man's hands;〃 and the great whelks; 

which the youth of Musselburgh know as roaring buckies; these we 

have seen before; but what; oh what; are the red capsicums? …



Yes; what are the red capsicums? and why are they poking; snapping; 

starting; crawling; tumbling wildly over each other; rattling about 

the huge mahogany cockles; as big as a child's two fists; out of 

which they are protruded?  Mark them well; for you will perhaps 

never see them again。  They are a Mediterranean species; or rather 

three species; left behind upon these extreme south…western coasts; 

probably at the vanishing of that warmer ancient epoch; which 

clothed the Lizard Point with the Cornish heath; and the Killarney 

mountains with Spanish saxifrages; and other relics of a flora 

whose home is now the Iberian peninsula and the sunny cliffs of the 

Riviera。  Rare on every other shore; even in the west; it abounds 

in Torbay at certain; or rather uncertain; times; to so prodigious 

an amount; that the dredge; after five minutes' scrape; will 

sometimes come up choked full of this great cockle only。  You will 

see hundreds of them in every cove for miles this day; a seeming 

waste of life; which would be awful; in our eyes; were not the 

Divine Ruler; as His custom is; making this destruction the means 

of fresh creation; by burying them in the sands; as soon as washed 

on shore; to fertilize the strata of some future world。  It is but 

a shell…fish truly; but the great Cuvier thought it remarkable 

enough to devote to its anatomy elaborate descriptions and 

drawings; which have done more perhaps than any others to 

illustrate the curious economy of the whole class of bivalve; or 

double…shelled; mollusca。  (Plate II。 Fig。 3。)



That red capsicum is the foot of the animal contained in the 

cockleshell。  By its aid it crawls; leaps; and burrows in the sand; 

where it lies drinking in the salt water through one of its 

siphons; and discharging it again through the other。  Put the shell 

into a rock pool; or a basin of water; and you will see the siphons 

clearly。  The valves gape apart some three…quarters of an inch。  

The semi…pellucid orange 〃mantle〃 f
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