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sons of the soil-第2部分
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this entrance; called 〃the gate of the Avenue;〃 which plainly shows
the hand of the Great Dauphin (to whom; indeed; Les Aigues owes it);
seems to me none the less beautiful for that。 At the end of each ha…ha
the walls of the park; built of rough…hewn stone; begin。 These stones;
set in a mortar made of reddish earth; display their variegated
colors; the warm yellows of the silex; the white of the lime
carbonates; the russet browns of the sandstone; in many a fantastic
shape。 As you first enter it; the park is gloomy; the walls are hidden
by creeping plants and by trees that for fifty years have heard no
sound of axe。 One might think it a virgin forest; made primeval again
through some phenomenon granted exclusively to forests。 The trunks of
the trees are swathed with lichen which hangs from one to another。
Mistletoe; with its viscid leaves; droops from every fork of the
branches where moisture settles。 I have found gigantic ivies; wild
arabesques which flourish only at fifty leagues from Paris; here where
land does not cost enough to make one sparing of it。 The landscape on
such free lines covers a great deal of ground。 Nothing is smoothed
off; rakes are unknown; ruts and ditches are full of water; frogs are
tranquilly delivered of their tadpoles; the woodland flowers bloom;
and the heather is as beautiful as that I have seen on your mantle…
shelf in January in the elegant beau…pot sent by Florine。 This mystery
is intoxicating; it inspires vague desires。 The forest odors; beloved
of souls that are epicures of poesy; who delight in the tiny mosses;
the noxious fungi; the moist mould; the willows; the balsams; the wild
thyme; the green waters of a pond; the golden star of the yellow
water…lily;the breath of all such vigorous propagations came to my
nostrils and filled me with a single thought; was it their soul? I
seemed to see a rose…tinted gown floating along the winding alley。
The path ended abruptly in another copse; where birches and poplars
and all the quivering trees palpitated;an intelligent family with
graceful branches and elegant bearing; the trees of a love as free! It
was from this point; my dear fellow; that I saw a pond covered with
the white water…lily and other plants with broad flat leaves and
narrow slender ones; on which lay a boat painted white and black; as
light as a nut…shell and dainty as the wherry of a Seine boatman。
Beyond rose the chateau; built in 1560; of fine red brick; with stone
courses and copings; and window…frames in which the sashes were of
small leaded panes (O Versailles!)。 The stone is hewn in diamond
points; but hollowed; as in the Ducal Palace at Venice on the facade
toward the Bridge of Sighs。 There are no regular lines about the
castle except in the centre building; from which projects a stately
portico with double flights of curving steps; and round balusters
slender at their base and broadening at the middle。 The main building
is surrounded by clock…towers and sundry modern turrets; with
galleries and vases more or less Greek。 No harmony there; my dear
Nathan! These heterogeneous erections are wrapped; so to speak; by
various evergreen trees whose branches shed their brown needles upon
the roofs; nourishing the lichen and giving tone to the cracks and
crevices where the eye delights to wander。 Here you see the Italian
pine; the stone pine; with its red bark and its majestic parasol; here
a cedar two hundred years old; weeping willows; a Norway spruce; and a
beech which overtops them all; and there; in front of the main tower;
some very singular shrubs;a yew trimmed in a way that recalls some
long…decayed garden of old France; and magnolias with hortensias at
their feet。 In short; the place is the Invalides of the heroes of
horticulture; once the fashion and now forgotten; like all other
heroes。
A chimney; with curious copings; which was sending forth great volumes
of smoke; assured me that this delightful scene was not an opera
setting。 A kitchen reveals human beings。 Now imagine ME; Blondet; who
shiver as if in the polar regions at Saint…Cloud; in the midst of this
glowing Burgundian climate。 The sun sends down its warmest rays; the
king…fisher watches on the shores of the pond; the cricket chirps; the
grain…pods burst; the poppy drops its morphia in glutinous tears; and
all are clearly defined on the dark…blue ether。 Above the ruddy soil
of the terraces flames that joyous natural punch which intoxicates the
insects and the flowers and dazzles our eyes and browns our faces。 The
grape is beading; its tendrils fall in a veil of threads whose
delicacy puts to shame the lace…makers。 Beside the house blue
larkspur; nasturtium; and sweet…peas are blooming。 From a distance
orange…trees and tuberoses scent the air。 After the poetic exhalations
of the woods (a gradual preparation) came the delectable pastilles of
this botanic seraglio。
Standing on the portico; like the queen of flowers; behold a woman
robed in white; with hair unpowdered; holding a parasol lined with
white silk; but herself whiter than the silk; whiter than the lilies
at her feet; whiter than the starry jasmine that climbed the
balustrade;a woman; a Frenchwoman born in Russia; who said as I
approached her; 〃I had almost given you up。〃 She had seen me as I left
the copse。 With what perfection do all women; even the most guileless;
understand the arrangement of a scenic effect? The movements of the
servants; who were preparing to serve breakfast; showed me that the
meal had been delayed until after the arrival of the diligence。 She
had not ventured to come to meet me。
Is this not our dream;the dream of all lovers of the beautiful;
under whatsoever form it comes; the seraphic beauty that Luini put
into his Marriage of the Virgin; that noble fresco at Sarono; the
beauty that Rubens grasped in the tumult of his 〃Battle of the
Thermodon〃; the beauty that five centuries have elaborated in the
cathedrals of Seville and Milan; the beauty of the Saracens at
Granada; the beauty of Louis XIV。 at Versailles; the beauty of the
Alps; and that of this Limagne in which I stand?
Belonging to the estate; about which there is nothing too princely;
nor yet too financial; where prince and farmer…general have both lived
(which fact serves to explain it); are four thousand acres of
woodland; a park of some nine hundred acres; the mill; three leased
farms; another immense farm at Conches; and vineyards;the whole
producing a revenue of about seventy thousand francs a year。 Now you
know Les Aigues; my dear fellow; where I have been expected for the
last two weeks; and where I am at this moment; in the chintz…lined
chamber assigned to dearest friends。
Above the park; towards Conches; a dozen little brooks; clear; limpid
streams coming from the Morvan; fall into the pond; after adorning
with their silvery ribbons the valleys of the park and the magnificent
gardens around the chateau。 The name of the place; Les Aigues; comes
from these charming streams of water; the estate was originally called
in the old title…deeds 〃Les Aigues…Vives〃 to distinguish it from
〃Aigues…Mortes〃; but the word 〃Vives〃 has now been dropped。 The pond
empties into the stream; which follows the course of the avenue;
through a wide and straight canal bordered on both sides and along its
whole length by weeping willows。 This canal; thus arched; produces a
delightful effect。 Gliding through it; seated on a thwart of the
little boat; one could fancy one's self in the nave of some great
cathedral; the choir being formed of the main building of the house
seen at the end of it。 When the setting sun casts its orange tones
mingled with amber upon the casements of the chateau; the effect is
that of painted windows。 At the other end of the canal we see Blangy;
the county…town; containing about sixty houses; and the village
church; which is nothing more than a tumble…down building with a
wooden clock…tower which appears to hold up a roof of broken tiles。
One comfortable house and the parsonage are distinguishable; but the
township is a large one;about two hundred scattered houses in all;
those of the village forming as it were the capital。 The roads are
lined with fruit…trees; and numerous little gardens are strewn here
and there;true country gardens with everything in them; flowers;
onions; cabbages and grapevines; currants; and a great deal of manure。
The village has a primitive air; it is rustic; and has that decorative
simplicity which we artists are forever seeking。 In the far distance
is the little town of Soulanges overhanging a vast sheet of water;
like the buildings on the lake of Thune。
When you stroll in the park; which has four gates; each superb in
style; you feel that our mythological Arcadias are flat and stale。
Arcadia is in Burgundy; not in Greece; Arcadia is at Les Aigues and
nowhere else。 A river; made by scores of brooklets; crosses the park
at its lower leve
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