the diary of samuel pepys-第188部分

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where　we　stopping　for　something　for　the　horses；　we　called　two　or　three　little　boys　to　us；　and　pleased　ourselves　with　their　manner　of　speech。　　At　Philips…Norton　I　walked　to　the　church；　and　there　saw　a　very　ancient　tomb　of　some　Knight　Templar；　I　think；　and　here　saw　the　tombstone　whereon　there　were　only　two　heads　cut；　which　the　story　goes；　and　creditably；　were　two　sisters；　called　the　Fair　Maids　of　Foscott；　that　had　two　bodies　upward　and　one　belly；　and　there　lie　buried。　　Here　is　also　a　very　fine　ring　of　six　bells；　and　they　mighty　tuneable。　　Having　dined　very　well；　10s。；　me　come　before　night　to　the　Bath；　where　I　presently　stepped　out　with　my　landlord；　and　saw　the　baths　with　people　in　them。　　They　are　not　so　large　as　I　expected；　but　yet　pleasant；　and　the　town　most　of　stone；　and　clean；　though　the　streets　generally　narrow。　　I　home；　and　being　weary；　went　to　bed　without　supper；　the　rest　supping。

13th。　　Saturday。　　Up　at　four　o'clock；　being　by　appointment　called　up　to　the　Cross　Bath；　where　we　were　carried　after　one　another；　myself　and　wife　and　Betty　Turner；　Willet；　and　W。　Hewer。　　And　by　and　by；　though　we　designed　to　have　done　before　company　come；　much　company　come；　very　fine　ladies；　and　the　manner　pretty　enough；　only　methinks　it　cannot　be　clean　to　go　so　many　bodies　together　in　the　same　water。　　Good　conversation　among　them　that　are　acquainted　here；　and　stay　together。　　Strange　to　see　how　hot　the　water　is；　and　in　some　places　though　this　is　the　most　temperate　bath；　the　springs　so　hot　as　the　feet　not　able　to　endure。　　But　strange　to　see；　when　women　and　men　here；　that　live　all　the　season　in　these　waters；　cannot　but　be　parboiled　and　look　like　the　creatures　of　the　bath！　　Carried　away　wrapped　in　a　sheet；　and　in　a　chair　home；　and　there　one　after　another　thus　carried　（I　staying　above　two　hours　in　the　water）　home　to　bed；　sweating　for　an　hour。　　And　by　and　by　comes　musick　to　play　to　me；　extraordinary　good　as　ever　I　heard　at　London　almost　any　where：　　5s。　　Up　to　go　to　Bristoll　about　eleven　o'clock；　and　paying　my　landlord　that　was　our　guide　from　Chiltren　10s。；　and　the　serjeant　of　the　bath　10s。；　and　the　man　that　carried　us　in　chairs　3s。　6d。；　set　out　toward　Bristoll；　and　come　thither；　the　way　bad；　（in　coach　hired　to　spare　our　own　horses；）　but　country　good；　about　two　o'clock；　where　set　down　at　the　Horse…shoe；　and　there　being　trimmed　by　a　very　handsome　fellow；　2s。；　walked　with　my　wife　and　people　through　the　city；　which　is　in　every　respect　another　London；　that　one　can　hardly　know　it　to　stand　in　the　country　no　more　than　that。　　No　carts；　it　standing　generally　on　vaults；　only　dog…carts。　　So　to　the　Three　Crowns　Tavern　I　was　directed；　but　when　I　came　in；　the　master　told　me　that　he　had　newly　given　over　the　selling　of　wine；　it　seems　grown　rich：　　and　so　went　to　the　Sun；　and　there　Deb。　going　with　W。　Hewer　and　Betty　Turner　to　see　her　uncle；　and　leaving　my　wife　with　the　mistress　of　the　house；　I　to　see　the　quay；　which　is　a　most　large　and　noble　place；　and　to　see　the　new　ship　building　by　Bally；　neither　he　nor　Furzer　＇Daniel　Furzer；　Surveyor　to　the　Navy。＇　being　in　town。　　It　will　be　a　fine　ship。　　Spoke　with　the　foreman；　and　did　give　the　boys　that　kept　the　cabin　2s。　　Walked　back　to　the　Sun；　where　I　find　Deb。　come　back；　and　with　her；　her　uncle；　a　sober　merchant；　very　good　company；　and　so　like　one　of　our　sober　wealthy　London　merchants　as　pleased　me　mightily。　　Here　we　dined；　and　much　good　talk　with　him；　7s。　6d。；　a　messenger　to　Sir　John　Knight；　＇Mayor　of　Bristol　1663；　and　M。P。　for　that　city。＇　　who　was　not　at　home；　6d。　　Then　walked　with　him　and　my　wife　and　company　round　the　quay；　and　to　the　ship；　and　he　showed　me　the　Custom…　house；　and　made　me　understand　many　things　of　the　place；　and　led　us　through　Marsh…street；　where　our　girl　was　born。　　But；　Lord！　the　joy　that　was　among　the　old　poor　people　of　the　place；　to　see　Mrs。　Willet's　daughter；　it　seems　her　mother　being　a　brave　woman　and　mightily　beloved！　　And　so　brought　us　a　back　way　by　surprize　to　his　house；　where　a　substantial　good　house；　and　well　furnished；　and　did　give　us　good　entertainment　of　strawberries；　a　whole　venison…pasty　cold；　and　plenty　of　brave　wine；　and　above　all　Bristol　milk：　　where　comes　in　another　poor　woman；　who　hearing　that　Deb。　was　here　did　come　running　hither；　and　with　her　eyes　so　full　of　tears　and　heart　so　full　of　joy　that　she　could　not　speak　when　she　come　in；　that　it　made　me　weep　too：　　I　protest　that　I　was　not　able　to　speak　to　her；　which　I　would　have　done；　to　have　diverted　her　tears。　　His　wife　a　good　woman；　and　so　sober　and　substantiall　as　I　was　never　more　pleased　any　where；　Servant…maid；　2s。　　So　thence　took　leave　and　he　with　us　through　the　city；　where　in　walking　I　find　the　city　pay　him　great　respect；　and　he　the　like　to　the　meanest；　which　pleased　me　mightily。　　He　showed　us　the　place　where　the　merchants　meet　here；　and　a　fine　cross　yet　standing；　like　Cheapside。　　And　so　to　the　Horse…shoe；　where　paid　the　reckoning；　2s。　6d。　　We　back；　and　by　moonshine　to　the　Bath　again　about　ten　o'clock：　　bad　way；　and　giving　the　coachman　1s。　went　all　of　us　to　bed。

14th。　（Sunday）。　　Up；　and　walked　up　and　down　the　town；　and　saw　a　pretty　good　market…place；　and　many　good　streets；　and　very　fair　stone…houses。　　And　so　to　the　great　church；　and　there　saw　Bishop　Montagu's　tomb；　and；　when　placed；　did　there　see　many　brave　people　come；　and　among　others　two　men　brought　in　litters；　and　set　down　in　the　chancel　to　hear：　　but　I　did　not　know　one　face。　　Here　a　good　organ；　but　a　vain　pragmatical　fellow　preached　a　ridiculous；　affected　sermon；　that　made　me　angry；　and　some　gentlemen　that　sat　next　me；　and　sang　well。　　So　home；　walking　round　the　walls　of　the　City；　which　are　good；　and　the　battlements　all　whole。　　To　this　church　again；　to　see　it　and　look　over　the　monuments；　where；　among　others；　Dr。　Venner　and　Pelling；　and　a　lady　of　Sir　W。　Waller's；　＇Jane；　sole　daughter　of　Sir　Richard　Reynell。＇　　he　lying　with　his　face　broken。　　My　landlord　did　give　me　a　good　account　of　the　antiquity　of　this　town　and　Wells；　and　of　two　heads；　on　two　pillars；　in　Wells　church。

15th。　　Monday。　　looked　into　the　baths；　and　find　the　King　and　Queene's　full　of　a　mixed　sort　of　good　and　bad；　and　the　Cross　only　almost　for　the　gentry。　　So　home　with　my　wife；　and　did　pay　my　guides；　two　women；　5s。；　one　man；　2s。　6d。；　poor；　6d。；　woman　to　lay　my　foot…cloth；　1s。　So　to　our　inne；　and　there　eat　and　paid　reckoning；　1l。　8s。　6d。；　servants；　3s。；　poor；　1s。；　lent　the　coachman；　10s。　　Before　I　took　coach；　I　went　to　make　a　boy　dive　in　the　King's　bath；　1s。　I　paid　also　for　my　coach　and　a　horse　to　Bristoll；　1l。　1s。　6d。　　Took　coach；　and　away　without　any　of　the　company　of　the　other　stage…coaches　that　go　out　of　this　town　to…　day；　and　rode　all　day　with　some　trouble；　for　fear　of　our　being　out　of　our　way；　over　the　Downes；　（where　the　life　of　the　shepherds　is；　in　fair　weather　only；　pretty）。　　In　the　afternoon　come　to　Abury；　where　seeing　great　stones　like　those　of　Stonehenge　standing　up；　I　stopped　and　took　a　countryman　of　that　town；　and　he　carried　me　and　showed　me　a　place　trenched　in；　like　Old　Sarum　almost；　with　great　stones　pitched　in　it　some　bigger　than　those　at　Stonehenge　in　figure；　to　my　great　admiration：　　and　he　told　me　that　most　people　of　learning　coming　by　do　come　and　view　them；　and　that　the　King　did　so；　and　the　mount　cast　hard　by　is　called　Selbury；　from　one　King　Seall　buried　there；　as　tradition　says。　　I　did　give　this　man　1s。　So　took　coach　again；　seeing　one　place　with　great　high　stones　pitched　round；　which　I　believe　was　once　some　particular　building；　in　some　measure　like　that　of　Stonehenge。　But；　about　a　mile　off；　it　was　prodigious　to　see　how　full　the　Downes　are　of　great　stones；　and　all　along　the　vallies　stones　of　considerable　bigness；　most　of　them　growing　certainly　out　of　the　ground；　so　thick　as　to　cover　the　ground；　which　makes　me　think　the　less　of　the　wonder　of　Stonehenge；　for　hence　they　might　undoubtedly　supply　themselves　with　stones；　as　well　as　those　at　Abury。　　In　my　way　did　give　to　the　poor　and　menders　of　the　highway　3s。　　Before　night　come　to　Marlborough；　and　lay　at　the　Hart；　a　good　house；　and　a　pretty　fair　town　for　a　street　or　two；　and　what　is　most　singular　is；　their　houses　on　one　side　having　their　pent…　houses　supported　with　pillars；　which　makes　it　a　good　walk。　　All　the　five　coaches　that　come　this　day　from　Bath；　as　well　as　we；　were　gone　out　of　the　town　before　six。

16th。　　Tuesday。　　After　paying　the　reckoning；　14s。　4d。　and　servants　2s。；　poor　1s。；　set　out；　and　passing　through　a　good　part　of　this　country　of　Wiltshire；　saw　a　good　house　＇Littlecote。＇　　of　Alexander　Popham's；　＇M。P。　for　Bath。＇　　and　another　of　my　Lord　Craven's；　＇Hampstead　Marshal；　since　destroyed　by　fire。＇　　I　think；　in　Barkeshire。　　Come　to　Newbery；　and　there　dined；　and　musick：　　a　song　of　the　old　courtier　of　Queene　Elizabeth's；　and　how　he　was　changed　upon　the　coming　in　of　the　King；　did　please　me　mightily；　and　I　did　cause　W。　Hewer　to　write　it　out。　　Then　comes　the　reckoning；　（forced　to　change　gold；）　8s。　7d。；　servants　and　poor；　1s。　6d。　　So　out；　and　lost　our　way；　but　come　into　it　again；　and　in　the　evening　betimes　come　to　Reding；　and　I　to　walk　about　the　town；　which　is　a　very　great　one；　　I　think　bigger　than　Salisbury：　　a　river　runs　through　it　in　seven　branches；　（which　unite　in　one；　in　one　part　of　the　town；）　and　runs　into　the　Thames　half…a…mile　off：　one　odd　sign　of　the　Broad