roughing it-第87部分

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of　genuine　aggravation　and　annoyance。　　It　was　worse　than　useless　to　shout
at　him　or　apply　offensive　epithets　to　himhe　only　took　these　things　for
applause；　and　strained　himself　to　make　more　noise。　　Occasionally；　during
the　day；　I　threw　potatoes　at　him　through　an　aperture　in　the　bulkhead；　but
he　only　dodged　and　went　on　crowing。

The　first　night；　as　I　lay　in　my　coffin；　idly　watching　the　dim　lamp
swinging　to　the　rolling　of　the　ship；　and　snuffing　the　nauseous　odors　of
bilge　water；　I　felt　something　gallop　over　me。　　I　turned　out　promptly。
However；　I　turned　in　again　when　I　found　it　was　only　a　rat。　　Presently
something　galloped　over　me　once　more。　　I　knew　it　was　not　a　rat　this　time；
and　I　thought　it　might　be　a　centipede；　because　the　Captain　had　killed　one
on　deck　in　the　afternoon。　　I　turned　out。　　The　first　glance　at　the　pillow
showed　me　repulsive　sentinel　perched　upon　each　end　of　itcockroaches　as
large　as　peach　leavesfellows　with　long；　quivering　antennae　and　fiery；
malignant　eyes。　　They　were　grating　their　teeth　like　tobacco　worms；　and
appeared　to　be　dissatisfied　about　something。　　I　had　often　heard　that
these　reptiles　were　in　the　habit　of　eating　off　sleeping　sailors'　toe
nails　down　to　the　quick；　and　I　would　not　get　in　the　bunk　any　more。　　I　lay
down　on　the　floor。　　But　a　rat　came　and　bothered　me；　and　shortly　afterward
a　procession　of　cockroaches　arrived　and　camped　in　my　hair。　　In　a　few
moments　the　rooster　was　crowing　with　uncommon　spirit　and　a　party　of　fleas
were　throwing　double　somersaults　about　my　person　in　the　wildest　disorder；
and　taking　a　bite　every　time　they　struck。　　I　was　beginning　to　feel　really
annoyed。　　I　got　up　and　put　my　clothes　on　and　went　on　deck。

The　above　is　not　overdrawn；　it　is　a　truthful　sketch　of　inter…island
schooner　life。　　There　is　no　such　thing　as　keeping　a　vessel　in　elegant
condition；　when　she　carries　molasses　and　Kanakas。

It　was　compensation　for　my　sufferings　to　come　unexpectedly　upon　so
beautiful　a　scene　as　met　my　eyeto　step　suddenly　out　of　the　sepulchral
gloom　of　the　cabin　and　stand　under　the　strong　light　of　the　moonin　the
centre；　as　it　were；　of　a　glittering　sea　of　liquid　silverto　see　the
broad　sails　straining　in　the　gale；　the　ship　heeled　over　on　her　side；　the
angry　foam　hissing　past　her　lee　bulwarks；　and　sparkling　sheets　of　spray
dashing　high　over　her　bows　and　raining　upon　her　decks；　to　brace　myself
and　hang　fast　to　the　first　object　that　presented　itself；　with　hat　jammed
down　and　coat　tails　whipping　in　the　breeze；　and　feel　that　exhilaration
that　thrills　in　one's　hair　and　quivers　down　his　back　bone　when　he　knows
that　every　inch　of　canvas　is　drawing　and　the　vessel　cleaving　through　the
waves　at　her　utmost　speed。　　There　was　no　darkness；　no　dimness；　no
obscurity　there。　　All　was　brightness；　every　object　was　vividly　defined。
Every　prostrate　Kanaka；　every　coil　of　rope；　every　calabash　of　poi；　every
puppy；　every　seam　in　the　flooring；　every　bolthead；　every　object；　however
minute；　showed　sharp　and　distinct　in　its　every　outline；　and　the　shadow　of
the　broad　mainsail　lay　black　as　a　pall　upon　the　deck；　leaving　Billings's
white　upturned　face　glorified　and　his　body　in　a　total　eclipse。
Monday　morning　we　were　close　to　the　island　of　Hawaii。　　Two　of　its　high
mountains　were　in　viewMauna　Loa　and　Hualaiai。

The　latter　is　an　imposing　peak；　but　being　only　ten　thousand　feet　high　is
seldom　mentioned　or　heard　of。　　Mauna　Loa　is　said　to　be　sixteen　thousand
feet　high。　　The　rays　of　glittering　snow　and　ice；　that　clasped　its　summit
like　a　claw；　looked　refreshing　when　viewed　from　the　blistering　climate　we
were　in。　　One　could　stand　on　that　mountain　（wrapped　up　in　blankets　and
furs　to　keep　warm）；　and　while　he　nibbled　a　snowball　or　an　icicle　to
quench　his　thirst　he　could　look　down　the　long　sweep　of　its　sides　and　see
spots　where　plants　are　growing　that　grow　only　where　the　bitter　cold　of
Winter　prevails；　lower　down　he　could　see　sections　devoted　to　production
that　thrive　in　the　temperate　zone　alone；　and　at　the　bottom　of　the
mountain　he　could　see　the　home　of　the　tufted　cocoa…palms　and　other
species　of　vegetation　that　grow　only　in　the　sultry　atmosphere　of　eternal
Summer。　　He　could　see　all　the　climes　of　the　world　at　a　single　glance　of
the　eye；　and　that　glance　would　only　pass　over　a　distance　of　four　or　five
miles　as　the　bird　flies！

By　and　by　we　took　boat　and　went　ashore　at　Kailua；　designing　to　ride
horseback　through　the　pleasant　orange　and　coffee　region　of　Kona；　and
rejoin　the　vessel　at　a　point　some　leagues　distant。　　This　journey　is　well
worth　taking。　　The　trail　passes　along　on　high　groundsay　a　thousand　feet
above　sea　leveland　usually　about　a　mile　distant　from　the　ocean；　which
is　always　in　sight；　save　that　occasionally　you　find　yourself　buried　in
the　forest　in　the　midst　of　a　rank　tropical　vegetation　and　a　dense　growth
of　trees；　whose　great　bows　overarch　the　road　and　shut　out　sun　and　sea　and
everything；　and　leave　you　in　a　dim；　shady　tunnel；　haunted　with　invisible
singing　birds　and　fragrant　with　the　odor　of　flowers。　　It　was　pleasant　to
ride　occasionally　in　the　warm　sun；　and　feast　the　eye　upon　the　ever…
changing　panorama　of　the　forest　（beyond　and　below　us）；　with　its　many
tints；　its　softened　lights　and　shadows；　its　billowy　undulations　sweeping
gently　down　from　the　mountain　to　the　sea。　　It　was　pleasant　also；　at
intervals；　to　leave　the　sultry　sun　and　pass　into　the　cool；　green　depths
of　this　forest　and　indulge　in　sentimental　reflections　under　the
inspiration　of　its　brooding　twilight　and　its　whispering　foliage。
We　rode　through　one　orange　grove　that　had　ten　thousand　tree　in　it！
They　were　all　laden　with　fruit。

At　one　farmhouse　we　got　some　large　peaches　of　excellent　flavor。
This　fruit；　as　a　general　thing；　does　not　do　well　in　the　Sandwich　Islands。
It　takes　a　sort　of　almond　shape；　and　is　small　and　bitter。　　It　needs
frost；　they　say；　and　perhaps　it　does；　if　this　be　so；　it　will　have　a　good
opportunity　to　go　on　needing　it；　as　it　will　not　be　likely　to　get　it。
The　trees　from　which　the　fine　fruit　I　have　spoken　of；　came；　had　been
planted　and　replanted　sixteen　times；　and　to　this　treatment　the　proprietor
of　the　orchard　attributed　his…success。

We　passed　several　sugar　plantationsnew　ones　and　not　very　extensive。
The　crops　were；　in　most　cases；　third　rattoons。　　＇NOTE。The　first　crop　is
called　〃plant　cane；〃　subsequent　crops　which　spring　from　the　original
roots；　without　replanting；　are　called　〃rattoons。〃＇　Almost　everywhere　on
the　island　of　Hawaii　sugar…cane　matures　in　twelve　months；　both　rattoons
and　plant；　and　although　it　ought　to　be　taken　off　as　soon　as　it　tassels；
no　doubt；　it　is　not　absolutely　necessary　to　do　it　until　about　four　months
afterward。　　In　Kona；　the　average　yield　of　an　acre　of　ground　is　two　tons
of　sugar；　they　say。　　This　is　only　a　moderate　yield　for　these　islands；　but
would　be　astounding　for　Louisiana　and　most　other　sugar　growing　countries。
The　plantations　in　Kona　being　on　pretty　high　groundup　among　the　light
and　frequent　rainsno　irrigation　whatever　is　required。




CHAPTER　LXX。

We　stopped　some　time　at　one　of　the　plantations；　to　rest　ourselves　and
refresh　the　horses。　　We　had　a　chatty　conversation　with　several　gentlemen
present；　but　there　was　one　person；　a　middle　aged　man；　with　an　absent　look
in　his　face；　who　simply　glanced　up；　gave　us　good…day　and　lapsed　again
into　the　meditations　which　our　coming　had　interrupted。　　The　planters
whispered　us　not　to　mind　himcrazy。　　They　said　he　was　in　the　Islands　for
his　health；　was　a　preacher；　his　home；　Michigan。　　They　said　that　if　he
woke　up　presently　and　fell　to　talking　about　a　correspondence　which　he　had
some　time　held　with　Mr。　Greeley　about　a　trifle　of　some　kind；　we　must
humor　him　and　listen　with　interest；　and　we　must　humor　his　fancy　that　this
correspondence　was　the　talk　of　the　world。

It　was　easy　to　see　that　he　was　a　gentle　creature　and　that　his　madness　had
nothing　vicious　in　it。　　He　looked　pale；　and　a　little　worn；　as　if　with
perplexing　thought　and　anxiety　of　mind。　　He　sat　a　long　time；　looking　at
the　floor；　and　at　intervals　muttering　to　himself　and　nodding　his　head
acquiescingly　or　shaking　it　in　mild　protest。　　He　was　lost　in　his　thought；
or　in　his　memories。　　We　continued　our　talk　with　the　planters；　branching
from　subject　to　subject。　　But　at　last　the　word　〃circumstance；〃　casually
dropped；　in　the　course　of　conversation；　attracted　his　attention　and
brought　an　eager　look　into　his　countenance。　　He　faced　about　in　his　chair
and　said：

〃Circumstance？　　What　circumstance？　　Ah；　I　knowI　know　too　well。　　So　you
have　heard　of　it　too。〃　　＇With　a　sigh。＇　〃Well；　no　matterall　the　world
has　heard　of　it。　　All　the　world。　　The　whole　world。　　It　is　a　large　world；
too；　for　a　thing　to　travel　so　far　innow　isn't　it？　　Yes；　yesthe
Greeley　correspondence　with　Erickson　has　created　the　saddest　and
bitterest　controversy　on　both　sides　of　the　oceanand　still　they　keep　it
up！　　It　makes　us　famous；　but　at　what　a　sorrowful　sacrifice！　　I　was　so
sorry　when　I　heard　that　it　had　caused　that　bloody　and　distressful　war
over　there　in　Italy。　　It　was　little　comfort　to　me；　after　so　much
bloodshed；　to　know　that　the　victors　sided　with　me；　and　the　vanquished
with　Greeley。It　is　little　comfort　to　know　that　Horace　Greeley　is
responsible　for　the　battle　of　Sad