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egypt-第36部分

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souls; they understand us; for all that we have imposed silence on

them。 The darkness increases within; although the place is open to the

sky; and the icy wind blows more mournfully than it did outside。 A

penetrating humiditya humidity altogether unknown in this country

before the inundationchills us to the bone。 We are now in that part

of the temple which was left uncovered; the part where the faithful

used to kneel。 The sonority of the granites round about exaggerates

the noise of the oars on the enclosed water; and there is something

confusing in the thought that we are rowing and floating between the

walls where formerly; and for centuries; men were used to prostrate

themselves with their foreheads on the stones。



And now it is quite dark; the hour grows late。 We have to bring the

boat close to the walls to distinguish the hieroglyphs and rigid gods

which are engraved there as finely as by the burin。 These walls;

washed for nearly four years by the inundation; have already taken on

at the base that sad blackish colour which may be seen on the old

Venetian palaces。



Halt and silence。 It is dark and cold。 The oars no longer move; and we

hear only the sighing of the wind and the lapping of the water against

the columns and the bas…reliefsand then suddenly there comes the

noise of a heavy body falling; followed by endless eddies。 A great

carved stone has plunged; at its due hour; to rejoin in the black

chaos below its fellows that have already disappeared; to rejoin the

submerged temples and old Coptic churches; and the town of the first

Christian centuriesall that was once the Isle of Philae; the 〃pearl

of Egypt;〃 one of the marvels of the world。



The darkness is now extreme and we can see no longer。 Let us go and

shelter; no matter where; to await the moon。 At the end of this

uncovered hall there opens a door which gives on to deep night。 It is

the holy of holies; heavily roofed with granite; the highest part of

the temple; the only part which the waters have not yet reached; and

there we are able to put foot to earth。 Our footsteps resound noisily

on the large resonant flags; and the owls take to flight。 Profound

darkness; the wind and the dampness freeze us。 Three hours to go

before the rising of the moon; to wait in this place would be our

death。 Rather let us return to Chelal; and shelter ourselves in any

lodging that offers; however wretched it may be。



*****



A tavern of the horrible village in the light of an electric lamp。 It

reeks of absinthe; this desert tavern; in which we warm ourselves at a

little smoking fire。 It has been hastily built of old tin boxes; of

the debris of whisky cases; and by way of mural decoration the

landlord; an ignorant Maltese; has pasted everywhere pictures cut from

our European pornographic newspapers。 During our hours of waiting;

Nubians and Arabians follow one another hither; asking for drink; and

are supplied with brimming glassfuls of our alcoholic beverages。 They

are the workers in the new factories who were formerly healthy beings;

living in the open air。 But now their faces are stained with coal

dust; and their haggard eyes look unhappy and ill。



*****



The rising of the moon is fortunately at hand。 Once more in our boat

we make our way slowly towards the sad rock which to…day is Philae。

The wind has fallen with the night; as happens almost invariably in

this country in winter; and the lake is calm。 To the mournful yellow

sky has succeeded one that is blue…black; infinitely distant; where

the stars of Egypt scintillate in myriads。



A great glimmering light shows now in the east and at length the full

moon rises; not blood…coloured as in our climates but straightway very

luminous; and surrounded by an aureole of a kind of mist; caused by

the eternal dust of the sands。 And when we return to the baseless

kiosklulled always by the Nubian song of the boatmena great disc

is already illuminating everything with a gentle splendour。 As our

little boat winds in and out; we see the great ruddy disc passing and

repassing between the high columns; so striking in their archaism;

whose images are repeated in the water; that is now grown calmmore

than ever a kiosk of dreamland; a kiosk of old…world magic。



In returning to the temple of the goddess; we follow for a second time

the submerged road between the capitals and friezes of the colonnade

which emerge like a row of little reefs。



In the uncovered hall which forms the entrance to the temple; it is

still dark between the sovereign granites。 Let us moor our boat

against one of the walls and await the good pleasure of the moon。 As

soon as she shall have risen high enough to cast her light here; we

shall see clearly。



It begins by a rosy glimmer on the summit of the pylons; and then

takes the form of a luminous triangle; very clearly defined; which

grows gradually larger on the immense wall。 Little by little it

descends towards the base of the temple; revealing to us by degrees

the intimidating presence of the bas…reliefs; the gods; goddesses and

hieroglyphs; and the assemblies of people who make signs among

themselves。 We are no longer alonea whole world of phantoms has been

evoked around us by the moon; some little; some very large。 They had

been hiding there in the shadow and now suddenly they recommence their

mute conversations; without breaking the profound silence; using only

their expressive hands and raised fingers。 And now also the colossal

Isis begins to appearthe one carved on the left of the portico by

which you enter; first; her refined head with its bird's helmet;

surmounted by a solar disc; then; as the light continues to descend;

her neck and shoulders; and her arm; raised to make who knows what

mysterious; indicating sign; and finally the slim nudity of her torso;

and her hips close bound in a sheath。 Behold her now; the goddess;

come completely out of the shadow。 。 。 。 But she seems surprised and

disturbed at seeing at her feet; instead of the stones she had known

for two thousand years; her own likeness; a reflection of herself;

that stretches away; reversed in the mirror of the water。 。 。 。



And suddenly; in the mist of the deep nocturnal calm of this temple;

isolated here in the lake; comes again the sound of a kind of mournful

booming; of things that topple; precious stones that become detached

and falland then; on the surface of the lake; a thousand concentric

circles form; close one another and disappear; ruffling indefinitely

this mirror embanked between the terrible granites; in which Isis

regards herself sorrowfully。



/Postscript。/The submerging of Philae; as we know; has increased by

no less than seventy…five millions of pounds the annual yield of the

surrounding land。 Encouraged by this success; the English propose next

year to raise the barrage of the Nile another twenty feet。 As a

consequence this sanctuary of Isis will be completely submerged; the

greater part of the ancient temples of Nubia will be under water; and

fever will infect the country。 But; on the other hand; the cultivation

of cotton will be enormously facilitated。 。 。 。










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